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Italy · Province guide

Arezzo travel guide: Piero della Francesca, Cortona & the Casentino

Piazza Grande in Arezzo, looking towards the church of Santa Maria della Pieve
Photo: Andrewrabbott, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Arezzo is an easy train ride from Florence and far less crowded
  • Book ahead to see Piero della Francesca's Legend of the True Cross
  • Cortona, Anghiari and Sansepolcro make good day trips
  • The Casentino valley offers castles, monasteries and ancient forest
Airports
Florence (FLR), Pisa (PSA), Perugia (PEU)
Best time to go
April-June and September-October
Type
Province

Arezzo is the capital of eastern Tuscany, a prosperous city known for gold-working, a big monthly antiques fair and one of the great fresco cycles of the Renaissance. Its sloping Piazza Grande is among the most beautiful squares in Italy, and the city has a lived-in feel that is a welcome change from busier Florence.

The province stretches from the forested Casentino valley in the north to the Valdichiana, the flat, fertile plain where Chianina cattle are raised, and east to the border with Umbria. See our Italy guide for the rest of the country.

Things to do

  1. The Legend of the True Cross – Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle in the Basilica of San Francesco. Visits are timed and limited, so book in advance.
  2. Piazza Grande – a sloping square framed by medieval towers and Vasari's loggia, used for the Giostra del Saracino joust in June and September.
  3. The cathedral and Santa Maria della Pieve – the Duomo holds a Piero fresco of Mary Magdalene; the Pieve has a Romanesque façade of stacked columns.
  4. The antiques fair – held on the first weekend of each month in and around Piazza Grande.
  5. Cortona – a steep Etruscan hill town with views over Lake Trasimeno, made famous in Britain and the US by "Under the Tuscan Sun".
  6. Sansepolcro, Monterchi and Anghiari – the Piero trail continues with his Resurrection in Sansepolcro and the Madonna del Parto in Monterchi.
  7. The Casentino – Poppi castle, the Franciscan sanctuary of La Verna and the Camaldoli monastery, surrounded by ancient forest in a national park.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
Arezzo old townWalkable, good restaurants and the railway station
CortonaViews, atmosphere and easy access to Montepulciano
Valdichiana countrysideFarm stays between Tuscany and Umbria
CasentinoWalking, forests and quiet villages

Getting there

Fly to Florence or Pisa. From Florence, trains to Arezzo take roughly 35 minutes to an hour, depending on the service. From Pisa allow around two hours by train or car. Perugia airport is roughly an hour's drive from Arezzo and handy for Cortona. A car is useful for the Casentino and the Piero trail.

Best time to visit

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant, and the antiques fair and Giostra del Saracino give extra reason to time a visit. Summer is hot in the Valdichiana but fresher in the Casentino forests.

Arezzo makes a good day trip from Florence, but staying overnight lets you enjoy Piazza Grande after the day visitors have gone.

Top attractions in Arezzo

Arezzo on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is Arezzo worth visiting?

Yes. It has world-class art, a beautiful medieval centre and fewer tourists than Florence, Siena or Pisa.

How far is Arezzo from Florence?

Roughly 80 km. Fast trains take around 35 to 40 minutes, regional trains closer to an hour.

Is Cortona in the province of Arezzo?

Yes, Cortona is in the south of the province, about half an hour's drive from Arezzo.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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