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Peru · City guide

Cusco travel guide: where to stay, altitude tips & Machu Picchu trips

The stone cathedral on the Plaza de Armas in Cusco under a blue sky, with people on its steps
Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Cusco sits at about 3,400 metres, so plan a slow first day
  • The Boleto Turístico covers many sites around the city and Sacred Valley but not Machu Picchu
  • Stay in San Blas for character or near the Plaza de Armas for convenience
  • Trains to Machu Picchu leave from Poroy or Ollantaytambo, not the city centre
Airports
Cusco Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ)
Best time to go
May-September (dry season); April and October for fewer crowds
Type
City

Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire, and you can still see it in the streets: Spanish churches and mansions stand on walls of perfectly fitted Inca stone, and women in traditional dress lead llamas past the cathedral. Today it is the base for almost every trip to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, and a lively city in its own right, with excellent restaurants, markets and bars.

At around 3,400 metres it is also high, which shapes how you plan. For the bigger picture, see our Peru guide.

Where to stay

  • Around the Plaza de Armas – the most central area, with the cathedral and the Compañía church on the square and everything walkable. Can be noisy.
  • San Blas – the artists' quarter, a few minutes uphill, with whitewashed houses, craft workshops and small boutique hotels. Charming, but the steep lanes are hard work at altitude.
  • San Pedro and Avenida El Sol – near the San Pedro market and the Qorikancha. More local and usually cheaper, with easier walking.
  • The Sacred Valley – many people spend their first nights in Urubamba or Ollantaytambo instead, at around 2,800-2,900 metres, which makes acclimatisation easier and puts you closer to the Machu Picchu trains.

Ask for a room away from the street and check whether your hotel offers oxygen. Many do, and it can help on the first night.

Things to do

  1. Machu Picchu – the reason most people come. Visit on a day trip by train or, better, stay a night in Aguas Calientes to catch an early entry slot. See our Machu Picchu guide.
  2. Qorikancha – the Inca Temple of the Sun, with a Dominican monastery built on top, shows Inca stonework at its finest.
  3. Sacsayhuamán – a hilltop fortress just above the city, with walls of huge stones fitted without mortar. Walk up or take a taxi.
  4. The Sacred Valley – Pisac's ruins and market, the Moray agricultural terraces, the Maras salt pans and the fortress-temple at Ollantaytambo.
  5. San Pedro market – fruit juices, set lunches and local produce, an easy introduction to Andean food.

Many of the city and valley sites are covered by the Boleto Turístico del Cusco, a combined ticket sold in full or partial versions. It does not include Machu Picchu or the Qorikancha.

Getting there and around

Cusco's airport is about 20 minutes from the centre by taxi and receives frequent flights from Lima, taking about 1h20, plus some from Arequipa, Puno (Juliaca) and La Paz. There are no direct flights from the UK. A new international airport at Chinchero is under construction but not yet open.

The historic centre is compact and best seen on foot. Use official or app-booked taxis for longer trips. Trains to Machu Picchu run from Poroy station, about 20 minutes from town, or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, about 90 minutes by road. In the rainy season, some services start from Ollantaytambo only.

When to go

The dry season from May to September brings clear skies and cold nights, sometimes close to freezing. It is also the busiest time, especially around Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun on 24 June. April and October are a good compromise. From December to March, expect afternoon rain; the Inca Trail closes in February.

Top attractions in Cusco

Cusco on the map

Frequently asked questions

How many days should I spend in Cusco?

Allow at least two nights in Cusco itself and two in the Sacred Valley before Machu Picchu. Four to five days in the region is a comfortable minimum.

How do I avoid altitude sickness in Cusco?

Fly in and rest on the first day, drink plenty of water, eat lightly and avoid alcohol for the first night or two. Coca tea is widely offered. Ask a GP or travel clinic about medication before you travel.

Can I visit Machu Picchu as a day trip from Cusco?

Yes, but it makes for a long day of 12 hours or more, with an early train and a late return. Staying overnight in Aguas Calientes or the Sacred Valley is much more relaxed.

Written by

Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor

Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.

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