- North Goa is livelier, south Goa quieter and more upmarket
- Goa has two airports, Mopa in the north and Dabolim in the south
- The beach season runs from about November to March
- Many beach shacks close during the June-September monsoon
- Airports
- Goa Mopa (GOX), Goa Dabolim (GOI)
- Best time to go
- November-March
- Type
- Coast
Goa is India at its most relaxed. A former Portuguese colony until 1961, it has a culture all its own: whitewashed churches, colourful old Latin quarters, a cuisine built on seafood, coconut and vinegar, and around 100km of coastline lined with sandy beaches. It is a popular winter-sun choice in its own right and the perfect place to unwind after a tour of Rajasthan or the Golden Triangle. See our India guide for planning the wider trip.
Where to stay
- North Goa: Calangute, Baga and Candolim – the busiest stretch, with big hotels, nightlife and water sports. Convenient and good value, but crowded.
- North Goa: Anjuna, Vagator and Assagao – the old hippie trail, now with boutique hotels, cafés and a famous Wednesday flea market at Anjuna.
- North Goa: Morjim, Ashwem and Mandrem – quieter beaches close to Mopa airport, popular for yoga retreats and calmer swims.
- South Goa: Colva, Benaulim and Cavelossim – long, wide beaches with large resort hotels, ideal for families and couples.
- South Goa: Palolem and Agonda – the classic palm-fringed bays, with beach huts and small hotels. Palolem is lively; Agonda is quieter.
Things to do
- Old Goa – the UNESCO-listed churches of the former Portuguese capital, including the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which holds the remains of St Francis Xavier.
- Fontainhas, Panjim – the Latin quarter of the state capital, with ochre and blue houses, small galleries and Goan restaurants.
- Spice plantation tours – inland around Ponda, usually with a Goan lunch.
- Dudhsagar Falls – a towering waterfall on the Karnataka border, at its most dramatic just after the monsoon.
- Beach-hopping and dolphin trips – boat trips from Palolem and Sinquerim go looking for dolphins in the morning.
- Markets – Anjuna on Wednesdays and the Saturday night markets in Arpora are fun, if touristy.
Getting there and around
Goa has two airports: Manohar International at Mopa (GOX) in the north and Dabolim (GOI) in the south, so check which one your flight uses, as transfers can take over an hour to the wrong end of the state. There are frequent domestic flights from Delhi and Mumbai, and some seasonal charter flights from the UK in winter; otherwise, one stop via the Gulf is common. Konkan Railway trains also run from Mumbai. In Goa, taxis and hotel cars are the main way around, and scooter hire is popular, though roads can be chaotic.
When to go
The season runs from about November to March, with warm sunny days in the low 30s °C and calm seas. Christmas and New Year are the busiest and priciest weeks. April and May get very hot and humid, and the monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain, rough seas and closed beach shacks, though prices drop and the countryside turns green.
Top attractions in Goa
Goa on the map
Frequently asked questions
Is north or south Goa better?
North Goa suits travellers who want nightlife, markets and plenty of restaurants. South Goa is better for quiet beaches, families and resort stays.
Can you swim in the sea in Goa?
Yes, in season, between the flags where lifeguards are on duty. Currents can be strong, and swimming during the monsoon is dangerous and often banned.
How long should I spend in Goa?
A week is ideal for a beach holiday. After a tour, three or four nights is enough to rest before flying home.
Written by
Emma City breaks & deals editor
Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.
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