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Belgium · City guide

Mons travel guide: the belfry, Doudou festival & WWI history

The baroque belfry of Mons
Photo: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Climb the UNESCO-listed baroque belfry for views over Hainaut
  • Rub the brass monkey on the town hall for luck
  • St Symphorien Cemetery holds some of the first and last British soldiers killed in WWI
  • The Doudou festival is one of Belgium's great street celebrations
Airports
Brussels South Charleroi (CRL), about 40 minutes by car; Brussels (BRU), about 1 hour 15 minutes by train; Eurostar to Brussels-Midi then about 50 minutes-1 hour by train
Best time to go
May-September; Trinity Sunday weekend for the Doudou
Type
City

Mons is a hilltop city in the province of Hainaut, close to the French border, with a handsome Grand-Place, a striking baroque belfry and a strong sense of tradition. It was European Capital of Culture in 2015, which left it with refreshed museums and public spaces.

For British visitors it has a particular resonance: the Battle of Mons in August 1914 was the British Expeditionary Force's first major action of the First World War, and British and Canadian troops were back in Mons when the war ended in 1918. Mons is in Hainaut, part of Wallonia; see our Belgium guide for more.

Things to do in Mons

  1. The Belfry – the only baroque belfry in Belgium and part of the UNESCO-listed group of belfries, with a lift to the top and a visitor centre.
  2. Grand-Place – the main square, lined with cafés and dominated by the Gothic town hall. Rub the head of the small brass monkey by the entrance for good luck.
  3. Collegiate Church of Sainte-Waudru – a grand Gothic church holding the golden Car d'Or carriage used in the Doudou procession.
  4. St Symphorien Military Cemetery – a peaceful wooded cemetery just east of the city, where British and German soldiers lie side by side, including Private John Parr and Private George Ellison, believed to be the first and last British soldiers killed in action in the war.
  5. Mons Memorial Museum – the city's museum of military history, covering both world wars and earlier conflicts.
  6. Van Gogh House – in nearby Cuesmes, a small house where Vincent van Gogh lived in 1879-80 as a lay preacher and decided to become an artist.
  7. Mundaneum – an archive centre telling the story of a pioneering early 20th-century attempt to catalogue all of the world's knowledge.
  8. Grand-Hornu – a short drive west, a remarkable UNESCO-listed former mining complex now housing a contemporary art and design museum.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
Around the Grand-PlaceCentral, close to restaurants, belfry and museums
Near the stationConvenient for trains to Brussels and Tournai
Countryside outside townQuieter guesthouses, best with a car

Getting there

From London, take Eurostar to Brussels-Midi, then a direct train to Mons in around 50 minutes to an hour. Brussels South Charleroi (CRL) is roughly 40 minutes away by car if you fly there, while Brussels Airport (BRU) is about an hour and a quarter by train. Driving from Calais takes about two hours, making Mons an easy road-trip stop.

Best time to visit

Late spring to early autumn is ideal. The highlight of the year is the Ducasse de Mons, known as the Doudou, held over the Trinity Sunday weekend (usually late May or June). It includes a procession and the Lumeçon, a mock battle between St George and the dragon on the Grand-Place, and is recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage. Book well ahead if you want to be there.

Combine Mons with Tournai, a short train ride away, for a two-centre break in Hainaut.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Mons important to British history?

The Battle of Mons in 1914 was the BEF's first major battle of the First World War, and the city was liberated by Canadian troops on the last day of the war.

Can you visit St Symphorien Cemetery without a car?

It is a few kilometres from the centre, reachable by local bus, taxi or bike, though a car is simplest.

What is the Doudou?

Mons's great annual festival, centred on a procession and a dramatic re-enactment of St George fighting the dragon on the Grand-Place.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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