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Spain · Province guide

Logroño and La Rioja guide: Calle Laurel tapas, wineries & things to do

A square in the old town of Logroño
Photo: Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Calle Laurel and its neighbours are packed with pintxo bars, each with its own speciality
  • Haro's station quarter has some of Rioja's most historic wineries within walking distance
  • Bilbao airport is roughly 1 hour 30 minutes away
  • Logroño's San Mateo harvest festival takes place in late September
Airports
Bilbao (BIO); ferries to Bilbao and Santander
Best time to go
May-June and September-October
Type
Province

Logroño is the capital of La Rioja, Spain's most famous wine region and one of its smallest autonomous communities. The city sits on the River Ebro and is a stop on the Camino de Santiago, but most visitors come for its food: the narrow streets of the old town, above all Calle Laurel, are lined with bars serving pintxos and local wine by the glass.

Beyond the city, La Rioja is a patchwork of vineyards, medieval villages and monasteries, with the Sierra de la Demanda rising to the south. The region shares the Rioja wine area with the Rioja Alavesa in the Basque Country. For an overview of the region, see our La Rioja guide, and for the rest of Spain our Spain guide.

Things to do

  1. Calle Laurel and Calle San Juan – hop between small bars, each known for one or two dishes, such as grilled mushrooms, pig's ear or patatas bravas. Evenings are busiest, especially at weekends.
  2. Co-cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda – its twin Baroque towers dominate the old town, and inside is a small Crucifixion painting attributed to Michelangelo.
  3. Church of San Bartolomé and the old town – walk along the Camino route through the old town, past the Puerta del Revellín and the pilgrims' fountain.
  4. Haro – the wine capital of Rioja Alta, with a cluster of historic wineries in the Barrio de la Estación. Many offer tours and tastings by appointment.
  5. San Millán de la Cogolla – the twin monasteries of Suso and Yuso, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are linked to the first written words in Castilian Spanish.
  6. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – a Camino town whose cathedral famously keeps a live hen and cockerel in a Gothic coop, recalling a medieval miracle legend.
  7. Briones and wine villages – hilltop Briones has a wine culture museum, and villages throughout Rioja Alta have cellars dug into the hillsides.
  8. Ezcaray and the Sierra de la Demanda – a mountain village known for blankets and good restaurants, with the small Valdezcaray ski area nearby.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
Logroño old townOn the doorstep of Calle Laurel and the cathedral
Around Espolón parkCentral and slightly calmer, close to the old town
HaroFor winery visits in Rioja Alta
EzcarayMountain base with excellent food

Getting there

Bilbao is the most convenient airport from the UK, with direct flights from several British cities; the drive to Logroño takes roughly 1 hour 30 minutes, and buses run too. Brittany Ferries sails to Bilbao and Santander, both within about two hours' drive. From Madrid, trains take roughly 3 hours 30 minutes. A car makes visiting wineries much easier, but choose a designated driver or book a tour.

Best time to visit

Late spring and early autumn are perfect, and the harvest season from September to October is the most atmospheric time in the vineyards. Logroño's Fiestas de San Mateo, a celebration of the grape harvest, takes place around 21 September. Haro's Batalla del Vino, where crowds drench each other in red wine, is held on 29 June. Winters are cool and damp, but the bars stay lively.

In Calle Laurel the custom is to order one or two pintxos and a glass in each bar, then move on, rather than settling in for a full meal.

Top attractions in Logroño

Logroño on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is Logroño worth visiting?

Yes, especially for food and wine lovers. It is one of the best cities in Spain for tapas and a perfect base for Rioja wineries.

How long should I stay in Logroño?

Two or three days is ideal: one for the city and its bars, and one or two for wineries and monasteries.

Can I visit Rioja wineries without a car?

Some wineries in Logroño and Haro are reachable on foot or by public transport, and organised tours run from Logroño. A car or tour is needed for the villages.

What is the difference between Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa?

Rioja Alta is in La Rioja itself, centred on Haro, while Rioja Alavesa lies north of the Ebro in the Basque province of Álava, with towns such as Laguardia.

Written by

Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor

Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.

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