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Italy · Region guide

Molise travel guide: Italy's least-visited region, from Termoli to the Matese

The old town of Termoli on the Adriatic coast
Photo: Alexandertpr12, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Molise is small, rural and rarely visited by foreign tourists
  • Termoli's walled old town and beaches are the main draw on the coast
  • Inland are Samnite and Roman sites, bell foundries and mountain villages
  • Fly to Pescara or Naples and hire a car
Airports
Pescara (PSR), Naples (NAP), Rome Fiumicino (FCO)
Best time to go
May-June and September
Type
Region

Molise is so little known that Italians joke it does not exist. It was part of a joint region with Abruzzo until the 1960s and is now Italy's second-smallest region, squeezed between Abruzzo, Lazio, Campania and Apulia. It has a short sandy coastline around Termoli and, inland, green hills, the Matese mountains and villages where life still follows the farming year.

That obscurity is the reason to go. Molise suits travellers who want an Italy without souvenir shops, with low prices, ancient ruins and warm hospitality. See our Italy guide for more of the country.

Things to do

  1. Termoli – a compact walled old town on a headland, with a Swabian castle, a Romanesque cathedral and sandy beaches either side.
  2. Saepinum – the remains of a Roman town at Altilia, with walls, gates and a forum in open countryside near Campobasso.
  3. Pietrabbondante – a Samnite theatre and temple on a hillside with sweeping views, in Isernia province.
  4. Agnone – a mountain town known for its historic bell foundry, which has cast bells for centuries.
  5. Campobasso – the regional capital, with Castello Monforte and the Misteri procession at Corpus Domini.
  6. Isernia – with a museum devoted to one of Europe's oldest known human settlement sites.
  7. San Vincenzo al Volturno – the excavated remains of an early medieval abbey near Castel San Vincenzo.
  8. The Matese mountains – walking in summer and skiing at Campitello Matese in winter.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
TermoliBeaches, seafood and the most choice of accommodation
CampobassoCentral base for Saepinum and the hill villages
Isernia and the Alto MoliseMountain scenery, Agnone and the Samnite sites
Countryside agriturismiFarm stays with home cooking, all over the region

Getting there

There are no airports in Molise. Pescara is the most convenient for the coast, roughly an hour and a quarter by car to Termoli; Naples is around two hours from Campobasso and Isernia; Rome is roughly three hours. Trains run along the Adriatic coast through Termoli, and there are rail and bus links inland, but services are thin, so hire a car.

Best time to visit

Late spring and September are ideal, with mild weather and green countryside. July and August are the time for the beach at Termoli and for village festivals. Winter is cold inland, and the Alto Molise often sees heavy snow.

Look out for "pampanella", a spicy pork dish from the area around San Martino in Pensilis, and caciocavallo cheese from the hills.

Top attractions in Molise

Molise on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is Molise worth visiting?

If you have already seen Italy's famous sights and want somewhere authentic and quiet, yes. Do not expect much tourist infrastructure or English.

What is the best town to visit in Molise?

Termoli is the easiest introduction, with its old town and beaches. Inland, Agnone and Campobasso are good bases.

Can you combine Molise with other regions?

Easily. Abruzzo lies to the north, Apulia to the south-east, and Naples is around two hours away.

Written by

Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor

Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.

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