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South America · Country guide

Guyana Holidays: Kaieteur Falls, the Rupununi, Georgetown & Travel Guide

Kaieteur Falls is a high-volume waterfall on the Potaro River in central Guyana
Photo: Bill Cameron, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • English is the official language and cars drive on the left
  • Kaieteur Falls is usually visited on a day trip by light aircraft from Georgetown
  • Nature lodges in the interior are remote, so most visitors book a package or guided trip
  • It is not a cheap destination once you leave the capital
Airports
Georgetown Cheddi Jagan International (GEO)
Flight time
about 11-13h from London to Georgetown, usually with one stop
Best time to go
Late September-November and February-April, between the two rainy seasons
Currency
Guyanese dollar (GYD)

Guyana is South America's only English-speaking country, a former British colony on the continent's north-east shoulder with closer cultural ties to the Caribbean than to its Latin neighbours. Most of the country is covered by pristine rainforest and savannah, and it has become a byword for genuine eco-tourism: think giant river otters, harpy eagles, black caiman and a real chance of seeing a jaguar, all from small community-run lodges.

For UK travellers it is easier than you might expect. English is spoken everywhere, cars drive on the left, and the country is four hours behind the UK (five during British Summer Time). Electricity is often 110 volts, with US-style sockets common and some UK three-pin outlets, so bring a universal adapter. This South America guide covers the highlights, when to go and what to budget.

Entry requirements

British passport holders can usually visit Guyana without a visa for tourism, typically being granted up to 90 days on arrival at the immigration officer's discretion. Your passport should be valid for at least six months, and you may be asked for proof of onward travel. Proof of yellow fever vaccination may be required if you arrive from a country with yellow fever risk, and vaccination is recommended for the interior. There is a long-running territorial dispute with Venezuela, and the FCDO has advised against travel to some areas close to the Venezuelan border, so read the latest advice. Rules change, so check GOV.UK foreign travel advice before booking.

Where to go in Guyana

Georgetown

The capital sits below sea level behind a Dutch-built sea wall and has handsome wooden colonial buildings, including St George's Cathedral, one of the tallest wooden churches in the world. Visit Stabroek Market, the Botanical Gardens, where manatees live in the ponds, and the rum distillery at Diamond for El Dorado rum.

Kaieteur Falls

Kaieteur, on the Potaro River, drops about 226 metres in a single plunge and is one of the largest single-drop waterfalls on earth by volume. Most visitors fly in by small plane from Georgetown on a half-day trip, often combined with Orinduik Falls, and you may have the viewpoints almost to yourself.

Iwokrama and the central rainforest

The Iwokrama Forest is a protected reserve with a canopy walkway, river trips and excellent birdwatching. Nearby Surama, an Amerindian village, runs its own eco-lodge with guided walks.

The Rupununi

In the south, the open Rupununi savannahs are home to giant anteaters, river otters and black caiman. Ranches and lodges such as Karanambu and Rewa are known for wildlife experiences and fishing for arapaima, the world's largest scaled freshwater fish.

Shell Beach and the coast

Remote Shell Beach in the north-west is a nesting site for sea turtles, typically from about March to August. The Essequibo River, the largest in Guyana, is dotted with islands and old Dutch forts.

Best time to visit Guyana

SeasonWhat to expect
Late September-NovemberMain dry season; good wildlife viewing and easier travel in the interior
December-JanuaryShort rainy season on the coast
February-AprilSecond dry spell; pleasant for most trips
May-AugustMain rainy season; flooded savannah, some roads impassable, Kaieteur at its most powerful

Getting there from the UK

British Airways has flown from London Gatwick to Georgetown with a stop in St Lucia, which is the simplest option from the UK. Alternatives include connecting via New York, Miami, Toronto or Port of Spain with Caribbean Airlines and other carriers, or via Panama City with Copa. Allow about 11-13 hours in total. You'll need an ESTA if you change planes in the USA.

Book Kaieteur flights for early in your trip. Small planes do not fly in poor visibility, and having spare days gives you a second chance if the weather closes in.

Getting around

Outside Georgetown, roads are limited. The main road south from Linden to Lethem through Iwokrama is unpaved and can be impassable in the rains, and buses and minibuses use it year round. Small charter and scheduled planes link Georgetown with interior airstrips, and this is how most visitors reach lodges. Within Georgetown, use registered taxis, especially at night. Many travellers book a multi-lodge itinerary with a local tour operator, which handles transfers and permits.

Money and costs

The Guyanese dollar is the currency, and US dollars are widely accepted for tours and lodges. Georgetown hotels and restaurants are reasonably priced, but the interior is expensive because of the small planes and remote logistics. A Kaieteur day trip is typically a few hundred US dollars, and all-inclusive lodge stays often cost US$150-300 per person per night. A 10-day guided wildlife trip will usually cost several thousand pounds including flights. Tipping guides and lodge staff is customary.

Frequently asked questions

Is Guyana safe to visit?

Most visits are trouble-free, especially in the interior. Georgetown has high levels of street crime, so avoid walking after dark, keep valuables out of sight and use registered taxis.

Do they speak English in Guyana?

Yes. English is the official language, and many people also speak Guyanese Creole.

How many days do you need in Guyana?

A week allows Georgetown, Kaieteur and a couple of rainforest lodges. Ten to fourteen days lets you add the Rupununi.

Can you see jaguars in Guyana?

Sightings are never guaranteed, but the Iwokrama road and the Rupununi are among the best places in South America to try, with luck and a good guide.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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