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United Kingdom · Region guide

Devon holiday guide: beaches, Dartmoor, Salcombe & where to stay

Combe Martin Panorama
Photo: xlibber, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Exeter is about two hours from London Paddington by train
  • Choose the north coast for surf, the south coast for sheltered harbours and sailing
  • Dartmoor is ideal for walking, wild swimming and pony spotting
  • Book summer cottages early, as the best ones go months ahead
Airports
Exeter (EXT), Bristol (BRS)
Best time to go
May-June and September; summer for beaches, spring for moorland walks
Type
Region

Devon is the only English county with two separate coastlines, and both are lovely. The north coast faces the Atlantic, with long surf beaches at Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton Sands, while the south coast has sheltered estuaries, sailing towns and the red cliffs of the Jurassic Coast. Inland, Dartmoor and part of Exmoor offer open moorland, tors and wild ponies. It is a little easier to reach than Cornwall and slightly less frantic in summer.

Neighbouring Cornwall is just across the River Tamar, and our United Kingdom guide has more ideas.

Where to stay

  • Salcombe and the South Hams – a chic sailing town on a beautiful estuary, with beaches nearby at Bantham and Thurlestone.
  • Dartmouth – a pretty river town with Dartmouth Castle and boat trips to Agatha Christie's Greenway.
  • Torquay and the English Riviera – classic seaside resorts with Paignton and Brixham, easy by train.
  • Exeter and Topsham – a cathedral city with good transport links, ideal for touring east Devon.
  • Sidmouth and Beer – Regency seaside town and fishing village on the Jurassic Coast.
  • Woolacombe, Croyde and Braunton – the north coast's surf and family beaches.
  • Dartmoor villages – Widecombe-in-the-Moor, Chagford and Moretonhampstead for walking holidays.

Things to do

  1. Dartmoor National Park – climb Haytor or Hound Tor, find a clapper bridge and spot the ponies.
  2. Surf at Croyde or Woolacombe – long sandy beaches with surf schools for beginners.
  3. The Jurassic Coast – fossil hunting and red-cliff walks around Sidmouth, Ladram Bay and Beer.
  4. Dartmouth Steam Railway – a heritage line from Paignton to Kingswear, combined with a river cruise.
  5. Clovelly – a car-free village with a cobbled street that tumbles steeply to its harbour.
  6. Exeter Cathedral – a Gothic cathedral with a famously long vaulted ceiling.
  7. Lynton and Lynmouth – twin villages linked by a water-powered cliff railway on the edge of Exmoor.
  8. A cream tea – in Devon, the cream goes on first, then the jam.

Best time to visit

June and September are ideal, with warm, long days and quieter beaches than in the school holidays. July and August are busiest and priciest, but the best time for swimming and surfing. Spring is wonderful on Dartmoor, with lambs and bluebells, and autumn brings colour to the river valleys. Winter is quiet and mild on the coast, though the moors can be cold, wet and foggy.

Getting there

GWR trains from London Paddington reach Exeter St Davids in about two hours, Plymouth in just over three, and Paignton and Torquay in about three. CrossCountry runs direct from Birmingham, Manchester and the north to Exeter and Plymouth, and South Western Railway runs a slower route from London Waterloo to Exeter. By car, Exeter is around three to four hours from London via the M4 and M5 or the A303, and about four hours from Manchester. Exeter airport has a small number of domestic routes.

Getting around

A car is the easiest way to explore, especially Dartmoor and the smaller beaches, but country lanes are narrow and summer parking fills fast. Branch railways run to Exmouth, Barnstaple, Paignton and Gunnislake, and the Tarka Line from Exeter to Barnstaple is a scenic way to reach the north coast. Buses link most towns, though services into the moors are limited, especially outside summer and on Sundays.

Dartmoor's weather can change fast and the moor has few landmarks, so carry a map, layers and waterproofs even on short walks.

Frequently asked questions

Is Devon or Cornwall better for a holiday?

Both are lovely. Devon is quicker to reach and has Dartmoor and Exmoor for walking; Cornwall has more coastline and a more remote, wilder feel. You can easily combine them.

Which Devon coast has the best beaches?

The north coast has the big surf beaches like Woolacombe and Saunton Sands. The south coast has more sheltered beaches, such as Bantham and Blackpool Sands, often better for young children.

Can you visit Devon without a car?

Yes, if you base yourself in a town on the railway, such as Exeter, Torquay, Exmouth or Barnstaple, and use buses and boats for day trips.

Written by

Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor

Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.

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