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South America · Country guide

Paraguay Holidays: Asunción, Jesuit Missions, the Chaco & Travel Guide

General view of houses and the church (background) of the Jesuit Reduction of Trinidad in Southern Paraguay
Photo: Maurice Chédel, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Paraguay sees few tourists, so expect authentic experiences and low prices
  • The Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesús are UNESCO-listed and often almost empty
  • Iguazú Falls is only a few hours from Ciudad del Este and Encarnación
  • Summers regularly hit 35-40 °C
Airports
Asunción Silvio Pettirossi International (ASU)
Flight time
about 15-17h from London to Asunción, usually with one stop in Madrid or São Paulo
Best time to go
April-May and September-October; summer (December-February) is very hot
Currency
Paraguayan guaraní (₲)

Landlocked Paraguay is one of the least-visited countries in South America, and that is exactly why some travellers love it. Asunción, one of the oldest cities on the continent, has a laid-back riverside centre; the south holds the atmospheric red-stone ruins of 18th-century Jesuit missions; and the vast, sparsely populated Gran Chaco to the north-west is a frontier of thorn forest, Mennonite colonies and wildlife such as jaguars, peccaries and giant armadillos.

Paraguay is bilingual in Spanish and Guaraní, which is spoken by most of the population, and its culture of tereré, a cold yerba mate drink carried everywhere in a thermos, is hard to miss. The country uses UTC-3 all year, so it is three hours behind the UK in winter and four in British Summer Time. Plugs are the two-pin European type at 220 volts, and traffic drives on the right. This South America guide covers the highlights, when to go and what to budget.

Entry requirements

British passport holders can usually visit Paraguay visa-free for tourism for up to 90 days. Your passport should be valid for at least six months, and you should make sure you get an entry stamp, especially if crossing by land from Brazil or Argentina, as it can be easy to miss. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended for some areas. Rules change, so check GOV.UK foreign travel advice before booking.

Where to go in Paraguay

Asunción

The capital is relaxed and unpretentious. Stroll past the Palacio de los López, the Panteón de los Héroes and the Cathedral, explore the Mercado 4 market and enjoy the riverfront Costanera at sunset. Day trips include the craft towns of Areguá and Itauguá, famous for ñandutí lace, and the lakeside resort of San Bernardino.

Encarnación and the Jesuit missions

In the far south, Encarnación has a long sandy riverside beach on the Paraná and a lively summer carnival. It is the base for the UNESCO-listed Jesuit missions of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue, which are impressive by day and often lit up for evening visits.

Ciudad del Este and Itaipú

Ciudad del Este is a chaotic duty-free trading city on the Brazilian border. Next to it, the Itaipú Dam is one of the largest hydroelectric plants on earth and offers tours. The Iguazú Falls are about 30-60 minutes away across the border in Brazil or Argentina.

The Gran Chaco

The Chaco covers more than half the country but holds only a few per cent of the population. Mennonite towns such as Filadelfia and Loma Plata are the main bases, and guided trips go to Defensores del Chaco National Park and the salt lagoons to see birds, wildlife and the endangered Chacoan peccary.

Best time to visit Paraguay

SeasonWhat to expect
Autumn (March-May)Warm, drier and comfortable; good for the missions and Asunción
Winter (June-August)Mild days around 20 °C, cool nights; best for the Chaco
Spring (September-November)Warming up, jacarandas and lapacho trees in bloom
Summer (December-February)Very hot and humid, often 35 °C+, with storms; carnival in Encarnación

Getting there from the UK

There are no direct UK flights. Air Europa flies non-stop between Madrid and Asunción, which makes for a one-stop trip from London and other UK airports. Other options connect via São Paulo with LATAM, via Buenos Aires with Aerolíneas Argentinas, or via Panama City with Copa. Allow about 15-17 hours in total.

Many visitors combine Paraguay with Iguazú Falls and Buenos Aires. See our Argentina guide and the Iguazú Falls page to plan a loop.

Getting around

Long-distance buses are the main way to travel, and companies such as NSA and La Encarnacena run comfortable coaches from Asunción to Encarnación (about five to six hours) and Ciudad del Este (about five hours). Bolt and Uber work in Asunción. Car hire is useful for the missions and the Chaco, though roads in the Chaco can be sandy or muddy and services sparse, so a guided trip is often easier there.

Money and costs

The guaraní has big numbers, with notes running up to ₲100,000. Paraguay is one of the cheapest countries in South America: budget travellers can manage on about £25-40 per person per day, and a comfortable mid-range trip is more like £60-100. Cards are accepted in cities, but carry cash in smaller towns. Tipping around 10% in restaurants is appreciated.

Frequently asked questions

Is Paraguay worth visiting?

Yes, if you enjoy places off the tourist trail. The Jesuit missions and the Chaco are highlights, and it pairs well with Iguazú Falls and Argentina.

Is Paraguay safe for tourists?

Most visits are trouble-free. Take normal precautions against petty crime in Asunción and Ciudad del Este, and avoid remote northern border areas linked to drug trafficking.

Do people speak English in Paraguay?

English is not widely spoken outside upmarket hotels, so basic Spanish or a translation app is very helpful.

How many days do you need in Paraguay?

Five to seven days covers Asunción, the missions and Encarnación. Add three or four days for the Chaco.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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