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Italy · Region guide

Apulia (Puglia) holiday guide: trulli, Lecce, Salento beaches & where to stay

Aerial view of the whitewashed hilltop old town of Ostuni in Puglia
Photo: ParisTaras, CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Fly to Bari for the north and the Valle d'Itria, or Brindisi for Lecce and the Salento
  • Hire a car, as the best masserie, beaches and villages are spread out
  • Puglia has two coasts, so you can usually find a calm sea on one of them
  • June and September are warm without the August crowds
Airports
Bari (BRI), Brindisi (BDS)
Best time to go
May-June and September
Type
Region

Puglia, called Apulia in English, is the long heel of Italy's boot, with more coastline than any other region on the mainland. It is a flat, sunny land of olive groves and dry-stone walls, dotted with whitewashed hill towns, conical trulli houses and fortified farmhouses called masserie, many of them now places to stay. The food is simple and excellent: orecchiette, burrata, focaccia, raw seafood and olive oil from centuries-old trees.

British visitors have taken to Puglia in a big way over the past two decades, but it still feels less polished and less crowded than Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast. See our Italy guide for other regions.

Why go to Puglia

  1. Alberobello and the Valle d'Itria – the UNESCO-listed trulli district, plus the white towns of Locorotondo, Cisternino and Martina Franca.
  2. Lecce – a honey-coloured city of extravagant baroque church fronts, and the gateway to the Salento peninsula.
  3. Polignano a Mare – a clifftop old town with a famous pebble cove, half an hour from Bari by train.
  4. Bari – a working port city with a lively old town, the Basilica of San Nicola and the women making orecchiette in the street.
  5. Ostuni – the "white city" on a hill above the olive groves, in the province of Brindisi.
  6. The Salento coast – sandy beaches and clear water around Otranto, Gallipoli, Porto Cesareo and down to Santa Maria di Leuca.
  7. The Gargano – the "spur" of the boot, with beech forest, sea caves and resort towns such as Vieste and Peschici.
  8. Castel del Monte – Frederick II's mysterious octagonal castle near Andria, in the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
Valle d'ItriaTrulli and masserie stays, central for day trips
Polignano a Mare or MonopoliSeaside towns with train links to Bari
LecceBest city base for the baroque and the Salento beaches
Salento coastBeach holidays around Otranto, Gallipoli or Torre dell'Orso
GarganoFamily beach resorts and walking, but far from the rest of Puglia

The other provinces – Foggia in the north and Taranto on the Ionian Sea – see fewer foreign visitors but are worth a look if you are driving through.

Getting there

Bari (BRI) and Brindisi (BDS) both have flights from the UK, with more choice from late spring to early autumn; check seasonal routes from your nearest airport. Bari suits the Valle d'Itria, Polignano and Matera, just over the border in Basilicata. Brindisi is closer to Lecce and the Salento, about 45 minutes by road.

Trains run down the Adriatic coast from Bari to Brindisi and Lecce, and you can reach Puglia by rail from Rome or Naples in roughly four hours or more. However, the countryside, masserie and smaller beaches really need a hire car. Driving is generally relaxed outside the cities, though old town centres often have restricted traffic zones (ZTL).

Best time to visit

May, June and September are the sweet spot: hot, sunny and with sea warm enough to swim from June. July and August are very hot and Italian holidaymakers fill the beaches, especially around mid-August. Spring brings wildflowers, and October is often still warm enough for the beach. Winter is mild but quiet, and many seaside places close.

Puglia has an Adriatic and an Ionian coast. If the wind is whipping up one, the other is often calm.

Top attractions in Apulia

Apulia on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is it Puglia or Apulia?

The same place. Puglia is the Italian name and the one you will see on signs; Apulia is the traditional English name.

Can you visit Puglia without a car?

Partly. You can link Bari, Polignano, Monopoli, Ostuni, Brindisi and Lecce by train, and reach Alberobello by local train or bus. To stay in a masseria or explore the beaches properly, a car makes life much easier.

How long should I spend in Puglia?

A week covers the Valle d'Itria and Lecce at a relaxed pace. Ten days to two weeks lets you add the Salento beaches or the Gargano.

Is Puglia good for families?

Yes. Shallow sandy beaches in the Salento and on the Gargano, villas with pools and an easy-going food culture make it a popular family choice.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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