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Istanbul first-timer's guide: tips, sights and a 3-day plan

View over Istanbul's old city and the Golden Horn from the Galata Tower, with mosques, ferries and the waterfront
Photo: Jorge Láscar from Australia, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • British passport holders can visit Turkey visa-free for up to 90 days
  • Hagia Sophia's upper gallery costs €25 for foreign visitors, and the Blue Mosque is free
  • Buy an Istanbulkart for trams, metro and ferries
  • Stay in Sultanahmet for sights or Karaköy and Galata for food and nightlife

Istanbul is the only great city that sits on two continents, and it feels like it: Byzantine churches and Ottoman mosques, ferries criss-crossing the Bosphorus, rooftop bars and centuries-old bazaars. It's about a four-hour flight from London, it's good value compared with most European capitals, and three days is just enough to fall for it.

Before you go

  • Entry: British citizens can visit Turkey for up to 90 days in any 180 without a visa. Your passport must be valid for at least 150 days from arrival. Check the Foreign Office's Turkey travel advice before you go.
  • Airports: Istanbul Airport (IST) is on the European side, about 45 to 75 minutes from the centre. Sabiha Gökçen (SAW), used by many budget airlines, is on the Asian side and further from Sultanahmet. Both have Havaist or Havabus airport buses, and IST also has a metro line into the city.
  • Money: The Turkish lira fluctuates a lot. Cards are widely accepted, but carry some cash for small cafés, the bazaar and tips. Major sights often price tickets in euros.
  • Time: Turkey is three hours ahead of the UK in winter and two hours ahead during British Summer Time.

Where to stay

AreaSideGood forWatch out for
SultanahmetEuropean (old city)Walking to Hagia Sophia, Topkapı, the Blue MosqueQuiet at night, touts
Sirkeci and EminönüEuropeanFerries, trams, the Spice BazaarBusy and noisy
Karaköy and GalataEuropean (Beyoğlu)Cafés, restaurants, nightlifeSteep hills
KadıköyAsianLocal food market, a less touristy feelFerry ride to the main sights

Getting around

Buy an Istanbulkart from machines at stations and load it with credit. It works on trams, the metro, buses, funiculars and the public ferries, and it's much cheaper than single tickets. The T1 tram links Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Karaköy. Public ferries are a sightseeing bargain: the Eminönü to Kadıköy crossing costs about the same as a tram ride and has wonderful views.

Mosque etiquette

Istanbul's mosques are working places of worship. Women should cover their hair and everyone should cover their shoulders and knees. Shoes come off at the door. Most mosques close to visitors during the five daily prayers, and for longer at Friday midday prayers, so check times on the door or online.

A three-day plan for first-timers

Day 1: the old city

  • Hagia Sophia: Built as a church in 537 and now a mosque, it has two entrances. The ground floor is reserved for worshippers. Foreign visitors enter the upper gallery, with its Byzantine mosaics, by a separate tourist entrance near the Topkapı gate. The ticket costs €25. Go at opening time to avoid the long queues.
  • Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque): Free to enter outside prayer times.
  • Basilica Cistern: A vast underground Byzantine reservoir with forests of columns and two Medusa heads. Paid entry.
  • Evening: Dinner on a rooftop terrace with views of the domes.

Day 2: palaces and bazaars

  • Topkapı Palace: Home of the Ottoman sultans, with courtyards, treasury jewels and Bosphorus views. Allow three hours, and pay extra for the Harem, which is worth it.
  • Grand Bazaar: Thousands of shops under painted vaults (closed on Sundays). Haggling is expected for carpets and souvenirs, less so for small items with fixed prices.
  • Spice Bazaar and Eminönü: Turkish delight, spices and a fish sandwich by the Galata Bridge.

Day 3: the Bosphorus and Galata

  • Bosphorus ferry: Take a public Bosphorus cruise from Eminönü, a fraction of the price of private boat tours. You'll pass Ottoman palaces, wooden mansions and the bridges between Europe and Asia.
  • Kadıköy: Ferry to the Asian side for the food market and meze lunches.
  • Galata Tower and İstiklal Avenue: Climb the tower for sunset views (paid), then walk İstiklal Avenue and the side streets of Beyoğlu for dinner and drinks.

Money-saving tips

  • Use public ferries and the Istanbulkart rather than taxis. If you do take a taxi, insist on the meter, or use a ride-hailing app that books official taxis.
  • Eat where locals eat: lokantas (canteens with ready-cooked dishes), pide and kebab shops, and simit bread rings from street carts.
  • Check what passes cover. The Museum Pass Istanbul covers sights such as Topkapı but not Hagia Sophia.

Comparing city breaks? See our Rome in 48 hours and Lisbon in 3 days itineraries, or browse the Turkey guide.

Frequently asked questions

Do UK citizens need a visa for Istanbul?

No. British passport holders can stay in Turkey visa-free for up to 90 days in a 180-day period. Your passport should be valid for at least 150 days from your arrival date.

How much does it cost to visit Hagia Sophia?

Foreign visitors pay €25 for the upper gallery visiting route. Children under eight go free, and the ground-floor prayer hall is reserved for worshippers.

Is three days enough for Istanbul?

Three days covers the old city highlights, a Bosphorus ferry and a taste of Galata and Kadıköy. Five days lets you go slower and add the Princes' Islands or more neighbourhoods.

When is the best time to visit Istanbul?

April to early June and September to October offer comfortable temperatures. Summers are hot and crowded. Winters are cool and damp but quiet and cheaper.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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